 Painting, Both Interior And Exterior |
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Painting - Interior
Select the right paint for the job you are doing. Use your hardware dealer as a source for information. He can advise you of the advantages or disadvantages of various types of paint available and suitable for your job - whether a primer or sealer coat is necessary - if one or two coats will do and the amount of paint you will need.
Before choosing your paint, study the colors in natural as well as artificial light because Store lighting may be tinted to enhance colors.
Select neutral color paints - they harmonize with almost any decor.
It may be necessary to prep your walls to remove the natural household film that can accumulate, especially in kitchens and rooms adjacent to the kitchen or cooking area. Use a household detergent and warm water. Rinse well. Caution - when sponging plaster board walls, do not use too much water - wring your sponge out well.
Patch cracks with spackle, let dry, sand.
Remove all curtains and drapes.
Remove hardware from doors, windows, cupboards, etc., or carefully cover all hardware with masking tape.
Move furniture to the center of the room and cover with drop cloths.
Protect the floor area you are working in - cover it with a drop cloth and move it along as the work progresses.
Rub some creamy hand lotion on your hands before you start - it will make your personal clean up much easier after the job is done. Or - wear painters or rubber gloves.
Paint ceilings first, then the walls and finally the trim.
With a Brush - Experts agree best results are achieved using a high quality brush - one that has both long and short bristles tapered to a serviceable edge. The best brush bristles have natural split ends or may have commercially split tips that grab and hold the paint.
Natural bristle brushes can be used on any surface with any type of paint.
Nylon bristles are superior to natural bristles only when applying latex or water based paints. They cannot be used to apply shellac.
You will need several brushes - a wide brush for large flat surfaces, a 2" trim brush and a 1 1/2 " sash brush. A small round brush is often useful for hard to reach spots.
Do the ceiling first. Applying the paint with a roller is recommended. See instructions that follow under Painting - With a Roller.
Use your wide brush for the flat wall surfaces. Dip the brush into the paint - just cover 1/3 of the bristles' length. To rid the brush of excess paint, tap it lightly, do not draw the brush over the rim of the can. Light long strokes will provide the best finish. To cover all bristle marks, first brush up, then down, then across, then up and down once more. Work from the ceiling down.
To paint window trim, use a 1 1/2 " tapered sash brush. Paint crossbars first, then frames and finally the sills.
With a Roller - Rollers are made of synthetic fibers or wool. Short pile rollers are for smooth surfaces. Deep or heavy pile rollers are for rougher uneven surfaces.
You will need a 9" roller, a pan and a 2" brush. An extension handle for your roller is a good investment if you intend to paint ceilings.
Before you start, make certain that walls are free of soil and that all cracks are patched and fully dry.
Paint ceilings first. Using the 2" brush, paint a border on ceiling when it meets the walls - all around the room. Next cover your roller evenly with paint. Remove the excess by rolling it back and forth in the tray. Roll the paint on the ceiling in 2' x 3' sections. To avoid splatters roll slowly - do not roll rapidly. For the best results, form an "x" in each section using two straight diagonal strokes with the roller. Spread the paint using long light strokes blending each stroke into the wet area of the previous sections. Continue in this manner until the ceiling is complete.
Now for the walls, use your 2" brush again. Paint a border on the walls, where they meet the ceiling - all around the room. Do likewise above the baseboard trim and around windows and doors. Roll the paint on the walls in sections as you did the ceiling. Finish up with light vertical strokes. Do not spread the paint too thin.
Paint windows and trim using a 1 1/2" tapered brush - crossbars first, then the frames and finally the sills.
Touch-ups - Your walls are in good clean conditions, but frequently washed areas around light switches, on doors, etc., are rubbed bare. Here's a quick easy solutions, if like most of us, you originally saved some of the leftover paint and it was water-based. You'll need a new sponge - an old one may contain soap file or other residue - and rubber gloves. Make certain that the area to be touched-up is free of soil. Then soften the new sponge by dipping it in water. Writing it out well, then dip it in the leftover matching paint. Start in the center of the base spot using a circular motion as if you were washing the area. Use just enough paint to cover the spot. Continue the circling motion spreading the paint and feathering it out until it meets and thins sufficiently to blend with the surrounding area.
Patching - Mix spackling compound with matching leftover paint instead of water. For small and inconspicuous jobs this works well and eliminates the need to paint after the patching is done.
Toothpaste (white) can be used instead of spackle to fill small holes. Make certain that it is completely dry before you paint over it.
Odor - Can't stand the smell of paint? Add a little vanilla flavoring - it will eliminate the odor.
Baseboard Moldings - This will save you time and grief in a room that is carpeted wall-to-wall. You'll need old newspapers and masking tape. Spread the newspaper on the rug about an inch from the wall - around the room. Use workable lengths of masking tape. Tuck it down over the carpet pile, where the edge of the carpet and the molding meet. Attach the other edge of the tape to the newspaper and continue around the room. Now, paint the molding. When it's completely dry remove the tape and the newspaper. This tip has an added bonus, you'll find that the tape has picked up the dust missed by your vacuum where your carpet meets the walls.
Painting - Exterior
Check the exterior surfaces of the house carefully before you buy paint or do anything else. If any of the following problems exist they will reoccur if not corrected first.
Buy enough paint to complete the job - see Estimating. If you are changing colors, plan on two coats.
Painting on hot moist surfaces creates and causes most paint failures. The best rule when painting outdoors is to follow the sun. Paint the shady side of the house first. Then, as the sun moves away from each side, paint it. Don't paint in the sun.
Before you move to the next side, check for "skips" (areas you may have missed) and go over them.
Moisture will affect an oil-base paint. If you are using one, wait until the morning dew has evaporated before you start. Moisture from dew will not affect latex paint, so get started early. Wait 24 hours after a rainfall before you paint with an oil-base paint.
To prevent future rusting and rust stains when using latex, touch up all exposed nailheads and metal with a primer.
Paint should be thoroughly mixed. Even if your dealer has mechanically mixed it, check it again by pouring half into another can. Mix both halves with a wooden stirrer until all pigment is blended, then check it again by pouring back and forth.
Protect your grass, shrubs and plants - cover with a drop cloth.
Start at the top of the house using a 3 1/2" to 4" brush with 4" bristles. Immerse the brush bristles in the paint to cover 1/3 of the bristle length. To prevent dripping, tap the brush before removing from the can.
If you have to stop before the job is completed, paint across to the corner of one board. This will ensure more even results.
For a neat professional look, use house paint on the edge of the trim where it meets the siding.
Estimating - how much paint is needed for house exterior? Follow these easy steps.
Determine the average height of the house. For flat roof types, measure the distance from the foundation to the eaves. For pitched roofs, add two feet.
Measure the distance around the house - measure around the foundation.
Multiply the average height by the distance around the foundation. This total equals the surface area.
Divide the surface area by 500 (because most house paint covers 500 square feet per American gallon). Your result equals the number of gallons required for each coat.
For the trim - the average six to eight room house requires about a gallon of paint.
Areas to investigate and repair if necessary
Check downspouts and gutters for cracks or other defects that may cause water to overflow and ruin a new paint job.
Check windows, door frames and other structural joints. Caulking and flashing should be in good condition.
Nail loose boards or shingles in place.
Fill nail holes or cracks with wood putty.
Peeling - This usually occurs on protected surfaces such as overhangs and porch ceilings. Chemical salts that were not washed off the old surface before it was repainted are usually the cause of peeling, or it may be the result of painting over a glossy surface.
Solution: Old paint must be scraped off and the surface sanded thoroughly. Wash surface with a phosphate-based detergent. Rinse thoroughly. Let dry. A primer may be necessary - this depends on the type of paint you select - check the label.
Mildew - is a fungus growth caused by high humidity and temperature. If it is not removed prior to painting, it will grow through the new paint.
Solution: Mix a solution of one part bleach and four parts water. Scrub the surface thoroughly to remove all mildew. Be sure to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands. Hose surface down. Let dry.
Blistering - is usually a twofold problem caused by moisture trapped in the siding which pushes the paint away from the surface. It may be a sign that there is a leak in the roof, eaves or the plumbing. Lack of ventilation in the kitchen and/or bathrooms could also be a cause.
Solution: Find the source of the moisture and correct that problem first. Then scrape the blistered area down to stable paint or wood. Sand the surface. A primer may be necessary before you paint - this depends on the paint you select - check the label.
Flaking - usually occurs after peeling or blistering, with the paint breaking completely away from the siding.
Solution: Follow the steps given for Blistering.
Alligator Cracking - If the siding is plywood or masonry, the problem may be caused by cracks in the siding. If not, it indicates that the top coat of paint has shrunk and pulled away from the undercoat. This condition usually occurs only on very old painted surfaces.
Solution: Scrape or sand the surface until you reach stable paint or wood. Hose down well. A primer may be necessary before you paint - this depends on the paint you select - check the label.
Wood Staining - is due to rust from (a) nail heads or (b) sap bleeding from a knot hole.
Solution:
(a) Remove rust from nail heads by sanding. Countersink nail heads and prime with a metal primer. Cover with wood putty - sand.
(b) Prime knot holes and sap streaks with shellac. In either case cover with two coats of paint.
Porch Floor - Concrete surfaces absorb a lot of paint. Make the job easier by using a roller with an extension handle. First, use a 4" brush and paint a border around the floor where it meets the walls. Then use your roller spreading the paint to meet the border. Do a small section at a time (about 2' x 3') and don't try to stretch the paint too far.
Porch Steps - Make this a two day job. Paint alternate steps - both treads and risers, so that you can walk on the dry ones. When they are dry - complete the job. Paint railings last.
Trim - Do window crossbars first with a 1 1/2" tapered sash brush - then paint the flat surfaces. A neat professional job is achieved if the edges of the trim (where it meets the siding) are painted with the house paint.
Fences - Painting a picket fence? Use a roller. It covers completely and speeds up the job.
Use a sponge for a wire fence. It gets the paint into all the joints and creases. But be sure to wear rubber gloves.
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